Friday 28 October 2016

Breitling Chronomat GMT chronograph

Breitling Chronomat GMT chronograph replica with tachymeter scale, a date display, and — always a useful function for pilots — a second time zone with 24-hour display. This last-mentioned indicator, which relies on an additional central hour hand, is a feature of the new Breitling Caliber 04, based on Caliber 01, which was developed in-house. The newer caliber boasts exactly the same traits as its predecessor: a column-wheel chronograph with vertical coupling, a 70-hour power reserve, and a COSC chronometer certificate. The Chronomat GMT performed impeccably: after it had been fully wound, it ran with an average daily gain of just 1.1 seconds, and it maintained this excellent precision when we tested it right after landing and again 24 hours later. The watch ran slightly faster when the chronograph was switched on.

Langer demonstrated its usefulness by turning it into position for a specific interval, although he found the tachymeter scale along the edge of the dial too small for his taste. Furthermore, he said, “there’s always something sparkling, glittering or glaring in the sunlight,” making it more difficult to read the time. Nonetheless, the time display is more prominent than the chronograph function and is always the first thing you see, especially when the dial is viewed in the dark. A dot on the bezel glows quite clearly and helps you see at a glance where 12 o’clock is. You have to unscrew the buttons before starting the chronograph.

The large, easy-to-grasp crown is also screwed down. When it is unscrewed and pulled out to its middle position, it can be used to adjust the hour hand either forward or backward, including switching the date display. This is very useful when traveling through different time zones. The 24-hour hand makes it easy to keep track of the hour in your home time zone.

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Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar

The small date subdial at 3 o’clock is more difficult to read than a window date display, but its black hand stands in sharp contrast to the silver dial. This is also true of the day subdial, at 9 o’clock. The month subdial, at 12 o’clock, is crowded and hence somewhat harder to make out – but this dial isn’t used much, anyway. Luckily, one refers even less to the leap-year display, because here the tiny print requires a loupe to decipher. This watch needs only 45 minutes for all its calendar displays to change at year’s end.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar replica has an elegant look, especially the version with rose-gold case and alligator strap shown here. The classic dial underscores the watch’s dressy side and tends to overshadow the watch’s sportier features. The case is surprisingly thin, just 9.4 mm. Only the four steel correctors appear out of place on the gold case, and their placement between the case’s middle section and bezel poses some risk that the wearer’s finger could slip when setting the date. The hexagonal crown pulls out to just one position, for setting the time. The fact that the watch has no hack mechanism is not immediately apparent because the watch has no seconds hand.

The time is easy to read, even in the dark, thanks to the luminous material on the hour and minute hands and hour markers. Audemars Piguet’s finishing quality is top-notch. The variety and complexity of satin and polished finishes on the watch’s case are impressive, as are other details like the hand-sewn strap and the folding clasp featuring the brand’s initials.

The movement was also decorated with great attention to detail. The gold, skeletonized rotor is hand-engraved and the flanks of the gear teeth are polished, as are the screw heads and beveled edges. Fine regulation is done by means of weights on the balance wheel, and the escape wheel has a shock absorber. Consisting of the ultra-thin 2120 (2.45 mm thick) and a perpetual calendar module, the movement is just 4 mm thick.

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Thursday 20 October 2016

Review Breitling Avenger II Seawolf Blacksteel

Replica Breitling Avenger II Seawolf Blacksteel, the latest iteration of Breitling’s professional-grade divers’ watch, is a 1,000-piece limited series with a brushed 45-mm-diameter blacksteel case that is water-resistant to an astounding 3,000 meters (10,000 feet).

The case is equipped with a decompression valve for saturation diving and a unidirectional, ratcheted, rotating dive-scale bezel with four rider tabs. The double-gasket, screw-locked crown boasts protective reinforcements and a non-slip grip.

The dial, in Breitling’s “Cobra yellow” color, makes for a stark contrast with the black case and strap. It has large, luminescent-coated hands and hour indices and is protected under a thick, curved sapphire crystal that is glareproofed on both sides. Its COSC-certified movement, Breitling Caliber 17 (based on the ETA 2824-2), features automatic winding and a high frequency of 28,800 vph.

The Breitling  Avenger II Seawolf Blacksteel comes with a black rubber Ocean Racer or Diver Pro strap, a high-tech military fiber strap, or a strap combining a tough, military fabric exterior with a rubber core.

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Review Breitling Navitimer 46 Blacksteel

Replica Breitling Navitimer 46 Blacksteel is the only one of the three new models powered by a Breitling in-house Caliber, the automatic Caliber 01, which carries a COSC chronometer certification and holds a power reserve of more than 70 hours; it has a blackened winding rotor that is visible through a sapphire window in the watch’s caseback.

The satin-brushed blacksteel case measures 46 mm in diameter and is outfitted with another distinctively Breitling element, a bidirectional rotating bezel with a circular slide rule, a device designed to aid pilots in making calculations related to airborne navigation.

Differing from the classical Navitimer dial, with its three silvered subdials, this watch’s dial has just two tone-on-tone subdials — small seconds at 9 o’clock and 30-minute chronograph counter at 3 o’clock — along with a date display at 6 o’clock. Red is used for the subdial hands and for the central sweep-seconds chronograph hand. The black rubber strap features a new aircraft tire-tread motif, a style now available on all Navitimer models.

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